 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
USING THE AERO COMPONENTS
Body Mounting and Rake
Mounting the body correctly is very important. Fitting the body so the tires have good clearance (no rubbing) and centered over the tires is the first step to proper handling. If anything is rubbing or dragging there's no need to even make chassis adjustments, the car won't work right at all. Smooth, straight, clean edges every where around the body will be less disruptive to air flow creating more speed. Expose as little as possible of the body posts. It's popular to use buttonhead screws instead of body clips. Great aerodynamically...not as substantial in crashes….driver's choice.
Rake is the angle the body is mounted on front to rear. Very simple...Front lower, rear higher equals more over all downforce (if using a rear spoiler). Good for shout tracks. Front higher, rear lower equals less downforce over all and much less drag. Good for very long high speed tracks. Plus the infinite variations in between. Another subtle adjustment with "Rake" is the height of the rear spoiler.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Front and Side Skirting
Using the lower skirting to seal air off will make a cleaner air flow and may help with some extra downforce with little drag penalty, but….
DO NOT have any lower edges dragging the ground! This is like dragging an anchor around the track and most important, any time your chassis or body contacts the racing surface , you have just negated all that expensive, high tech suspension under the body. Not a good idea. Always maintain ground clearance, especially in the corners where the body rolls the most and the
suspension is needed the most.
Cutting out the rear of the body and leaving the rear quarter panels extend down as sail panels is popular in some areas. We're not convinced of the
validity of those ideas and prefer the scale appearance where the cut lines are indicated on our Stock Car bodies.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|